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Longest Drive Comp TaylorMade SLDR V's R1
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I don’t understand the use of all these weird effects when you hit the
ball. You seem like a good golfer, your videos are quality, but there’s
absolutely NO need for these effects. If you’re going to do these, they
should at least by justified, like a slow-mo or something, not just random
after effects. Haven’t watched your other videos, hopefully you didn’t put
these effects everywhere, would be a shame !
*CHECK OUT MY OTHER LONGEST DRIVE CHALLENGE*
LONGEST DRIVE COMP CALLAWAY V SERIES Vs PING G30
Hi Rick, I just finished your demo videos for the R1 and SLDR and really
enjoyed them. You do a great job pointing out the etchings differences and
try and match selections which is very key. I purchased the R1 last Jan and
played it all year. Really love it once I played around with the weights
and loft settle for 10.5. I am 61 with a 10 hdcp and depend on technology
to offset the inevitable loss of flexibility with age. Thanks to your vids
I will keep it in the bag for a bit. Do you also have golf lessons on line?
From Canton, Mi. Cheers
Oh and also you should see the subtitles on this video. The maker of the
subtitles clearly didn’t understand your accent, because the words are
completely butchered. Its hilarious!
I have the R1 and I really like it. It has a great feel, especially when
you hit it in the sweet spot. For me, once I get fitted and choose my
settings, I don’t play around with the adjustments, they stay the same,
which is pretty normal. My dad has the SLDR, and I have noticed that the R1
has a much louder, more metallic “ping” sound, while the SLDR is more
subtle and more of a “crack” if you will. I like the R1’s sound just
because it sounds a little more true, and when I really go after one, the
sound is rewarding. However, this is just personal preference and
observations, and it could have to do with the balls we play, I play a Nike
RZN black (awesome ball). I really like this videos and all your other
ones, and I sure am glad you took away the effects haha. Looks like you’ve
also gained yardage and got a smoother swing recently. Keep up the awesome
videos!
Rick I don’t think for the last 2yrs Drivers are getting longer at all.
Especially the new Ping G30.. I bought it liked it but didn’t gain
noticeable yards , I sold it and put the R1 back in the bag.
User preference these days.. I believe
Great channel by the way. Cheers
I get the head to head match up, but isn’t the point of a new club to take
advantage of the newer technology? I would like to see another comparison
utilizing the technology built into the club.
Love your videos…leave the weird graphics out during the swing though…i
thought my laptop was screwing up haha….thanks for the vids!
Hi Rick,
Sorry not sure if anyone has already asked this question, but if you are
using a 9.5 in the R1, are you not supposed to Loft Up with the SLDR to
around a 12? I have been told that you dont get the benefits of the change
in COG and the more penetrating ball flight unless you loft up, thats where
the distance comes from?
By the way, I just bought the SLDR irons based on your reviews
Cheers,
Mark
You forgot to “loft up” lol!
Hi Rick. Is there any chance you could review the callaway diablo octane
driver? There’s no decent reviews on this driver. Thanks
Not digging the filters
Rick..You should have lofted up to the optimal lauch angle and then tried
it. Stewart Cink has lofted to 12 to get prime distance numbers as well as
other PGA Pro’s. Dustin Johnson-Boo Weekley-Jason Day-Juston Rose- have all
lofted up at least 1 degree. I bet you would have gotten more yardage. Mark
Crossfield got fitted and got more. Its all about science now. Try it and
post it please.
Traded in my R1 for the SLDR and went back the next day and got my R1 back.
To me it was not worth the extra jack and I did not get any extra distance
either.
#LoftUp, the SLDR will go longer, it must come out higher than what you
think is a nice ball flight ;)
An honest critique is refreshing. Thanks for posting. Wish I could hit my
driver like this.
Calm down with the editing
You’re not taking into account the whole design of the SLDR. It’s meant to
have a higher loft to achieve the greater distance. Personally I’ve played
a R1 with 9.5 degrees of loft and I got fitted for a 12 degree sldr which
does go considerable further with much less spin.
I thought the WHOLE point of TM’s claim was that it was designed for higher
loft. A lot of the pro’ using this club have gone up 1 or 2+ degrees over
their normal setting. So you hitting them both at 9.5 is not really testing
TM’s claims properly
thanks for break the myths, not always new means better
New clubs are aimed at fashion tarts. My brother still uses a Superquad and
he hits it further than anyone at his club.
Wonder what would have happened if you would have “lofted up” on the SLDR
as its design intends?
Hello, nice to meet you. My name is Elvio and I’m from Milan.
i found your video very interesting. i actually have a R11 (bought it 3
years ago i seem to remember) and I’m really attracted to buy the new SLDR.
but i don’t know if it’s really worth it.. your video R11 vs SLDR made me
think it is not worth, but since I have an old R11, well, it might be!
can you compare them?
furthermore there are many different SLDR which I don’t understand the
differences. which one would you recommend? consider actually i use a stiff
shaft and my average driving distance is 270m (300 yards).
Thank you and congratulations!
The whole reason the SLDR was big was because of the CG (center if gravity)
being placed far and forward. The R1 had the CG in the back. In order for
the SLDR to acclaim it’s distance potential, lofting up is necessary. So
whenever you do these test, maybe you could give the best lofts suited for
each driver and pair those up against each other.
is lynx boom boom driver any good?
What is the difference between a stiff flex and just regular? I have
regular flex on my R1 is there a big difference?
I love the design of the R1
this is not necessarily straight up because you are tired by the time you
get to the SLDR. any good pro knows not to hit more than 3 drivers in a
row as you start to fatigue. you could hear you starting to breathe
harder… did you take a break?
I’m 14 my handicap is 24 and I have a big max smart trolley and a sun
mountain tour bag. My clubs are xhot driver, callaway xhot2 3 and 5 woods,
xhot hot 4 and 5 hybrids and xhot 5,6,7,8,9 irons, xhot pitching wedge and
xhot2 sand wedge and a Callaway xj putter. Do you think I deserve all this
even though I have only been playing just under 2 years.
Bio Cell Pro vs Sldr…..should be a solid matchup as their both low spin
bombers!
There’s a big issue with your test. The SLDR is designed to have a lower
spin rate. You didn’t give the data on spin, launch, or ball speed. If
it’s spec’d the same it won’t be much further. It needs to have it’s loft
raised.
I am a custom fitter at Golfsmith, and I’ve run similar tests. The only
way to properly test this is to have both the R1 and the SLDR custom fit to
the player. And then have the player make the comparisons.
To get an SLDR to go further you’ll likely need to increase the loft on the
head. I’ve found that Fujikura SLDR stock shaft to play a little softer
than the RIP Phenom of the R1. As a result one might see benefit in
increasing a flex, or choosing a tour/tp option. That’s my feel, someone
else might find the stock offering to perform best.
What I’m saying is, the fact that you hit the SLDR shorter is to be
expected. The spin rate has dropped through the floor on this head vs R1.
It must be lofted up and if it gets a higher ball speed, at a higher
angle, with lower spin, it will be going further. My tests have shown that
for a player that struggles with high spin, the SLDR is the best option for
them right now. Ironically the R1 was also a good low spin option… the
SLDR just happens to blow it away.
You’re looking to see 17 degrees of launch and 1700 rpms of backspin.
You’ll notice that Taylormade knows it’s hard to get guys to raise the loft
and have started running ads about “loft up for more distance.”
Players who think they need an 8 or 9 degree head would also be well suited
for a 10.5 SLDR.
Hi Rick, great videos, your product reviews are great to watch. I was
wondering if you could do this test again but loft up both clubs to 11 or
12 degrees. These new clubs are designed to hit them with a higher loft. I
lofted up with my R1 driver this year and got more distance and am
pleasantly surprised.
You need to LOFT IT UP! Take the SLDR up to 11 degrees and smack it vs the
9.5 R1. Since the SLDR is designed with a more fwd CG you will need to
loft it up to have the same launch angle and then the SLDR “should” spin
less resulting in more distance.
burner 2.0
Hey Rick, I like the effort on this test, but honestly I don’t think it is
accurate and actually contributes to more confusion for the average
consumer. You need to ensure that your clubs are tuned properly to get an
accurate comparison. I tune my clubs meticulously, and actually just did
an initial comparison two days ago between the TaylorMade RBZ Tour I’ve
been playing over the last year against the TaylorMade SLDR TP I just
purchased. I used identical shafts (I’ve very picky on my shafts.. I won’t
even go into the importance of the shafts), both shafts spine-aligned,
exact length, frequencies within a few cycles of each other, etc. The RBZ
was tuned to the traditional specs we were always taught… around 2300 RPM
spin and 14 degrees of loft for launch angle (the clubhead is a 10.5 degree
adjusted neutral). The SLDR was tuned toward TaylorMade’s new
recommendations (17 degree launch / 1700 RPM) although in its 12 degree
head neutral configuration I could only muster 16.1 degrees of launch and
1600 RPM of spin… definitely will go back for most adjustment.
Regardless, both clubs averaged around 175mph ball speed, but with the
SLDR tuned closer to the 17 degree launch / 1700 RPM settings the SLDR was
consistently 10 yards longer carry and around 15 yards longer total
distance. And, more importantly, the less-well struck shots were
straighter as my side-spin was reduced noticeably. With the back weighting
on the RBZ, I simply cannot get the spin rate down below 2000, so the
option of lofting it up to the 17 degree / 1700 RPM “magic” numbers is
almost impossible. I think that is really the benefits that TaylorMade are
touting. We didn’t get to view your spin rates, launch angles, etc., all
of which are very important. Without them, it is like saying a BMW is
faster than a Porsche… how far is the track, how many curves, how long
are the straights? Different track configurations could yield different
results. My guess is that a 9.5 SLDR is not really the loft necessary to
get maximum distance for you, so I don’t think that is the proper choice
for comparison (and, to be fair, I don’t know if 9.5 on the R1 is right
either without seeing your numbers). It looks like I will be lofting up to
around 12.5 degrees despite a consistent 117 – 120 mph swing speed, which
is nuts as I used to play 7.5 – 8.5 degree drivers, but if that is what is
required I’ll gladly do it. So my point is, it is imperative that the club
be setup properly, or else the results are, quite frankly, just not
relevant to the average consumer. Just my two cents… keep up the good
work though!
But that wasn’t the point! Taylormade’s SLDR is suppose to have higher loft
-> longer distance….. so obviously the distance doesn’t matter too
much….but you should have compared BOTH in their relative adjusted
optimised degree.
I love your club comparison videos! I love to tinker with my set makeup
and I tend to look for deals on clubs by buying a generation or two old.
Based on your review, I feel real good about picking up an R1.
Great swing
has anyone here bought an sldr and noticed more distance or better
performance? i am willing to buy one.
what the hell did you think you were doing putting negative film parts in
this video
would like to see the taylor made burner 2.0 vs. the sldr.